22" binocular roll-away enclosure
The amateur astronomer waiting for the night skies is Tony Buckley from Sydney, Australia. The telescope is located in a garden area and sits on a 24-foot diameter concrete pad. |
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A small footprint enclosure for a large binocularMany amateur astronomers live under night skies bathed in light pollution and have to take their telescopes to remote rural locations for decent observing. For those fortunate enough to live away from city lights, keeping the telescope in an outside enclosure is an option.
Requirements for the 22" enclosures include:
DesignThe best enclosure is one that disappears when using the telescope. This not only provides open, unobstructed space around the telescope, but promotes natural ventilation and telescope cooling.
Modern professional observatory enclosures use louvers, front and rear doors, sliding dome halves, etc. in order to equalize the internal and external air temperatures. The old idea that it was best to enclose the telescope tightly — except for a narrow opening to protect it from turbulence within — has been abandoned.
Backyard enclosures built by amateurs usually adhere to a roll-off roof design3. Although easily built using conventional wood frame construction techniques, I rejected the roll-off roof approach because its supporting walls would have blocked views of lower-elevation objects, and because its large footprint wouldn't fit on my observing deck. These considerations led to the roll-away enclosure design, one that is permanent, weatherproof and completely removable4,5. Tracks for a roll-away structure were precluded because of its deck location; it had to roll on wheels. Construction
The enclosure's 3' x 5' x 10' structure consists of an aluminum frame with fittings made from 80/20 Inc.'s modular framing systems7. This "industrial erector set" manufacturer has a refined product line that makes custom design a simple, straightforward process. 80/20 precisely cut the T-slot aluminum frames to my specifications; all I had to do was bolt the enclosure together. For the walls and door, the enclosure's skin is cut from ¼" Alucobond8, which consists of two sheets of smooth .02" aluminum bonded to a polyethylene core. This laminate is manufactured primarily for architectural use as siding. The surface is pre-painted white with highly durable Kynar coil coating.
The pier is about six feet long and is embedded in a large concrete block below ground. It was poured using a Sonotube9 at the time the deck extension was built. Sonotubes, once sold exclusively to ATMs for their Dobsonian telescope tubes, are now found mostly around construction sites and in homemade subwoofers. Cooling and heatingThere is a small plenum below the deck level that surrounds the pier. A 75' underground, 6" PVC cooling tube terminates in the plenum and supplies air to the enclosure. The other end of the cooling tube surfaces in the shade of a pine tree down the hill. When the enclosure is in place, it forms a relatively air-tight seal with the plenum. A small 100 CFM electric fan inside the plenum is mounted over the end of the cooling tube. The fan is controlled by a switch in the house. The box is vented at the top. When the fan is running, air is drawn through the cooling tube, forced up through the enclosure and out the vent. The cooling system keeps the air inside the enclosure close to the the ambient air temperature. According to a recording thermometer, the maximum temperature inside the enclosure during the summer was around 102°. During the winter I attach a small gooseneck lamp with a 100-watt bulb to one of the telescope's struts, about a half-foot above the mirror. This raises the temperature of the mirror above the dew point and warms the enclosure slightly.
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